Then, three are those who have to see exactly what they can get their tech to do. These are the over-clockers and people who find innovative and creative uses for their gadgets. One of the more common devices that people like to upgrade is their 3D printers and the Anet A8 is no exception. This budget-friendly printer is great for beginners who want to get into the 3D printing niche without spending an arm and a leg.
When it comes to the Anet A8, upgrading the machine can make it more stable while providing additional functionality and features.
Of course, upgrades on a 3D printer involves more than just changing out a few pieces. It can be much more complicated than that. For starters, you can print most of the mods for your A8 right on the device itself.
The upgrades in this category are the ones we consider to be some of the most important for this machine.
They make it more stable and protect your device from failure. This add-on is one you simply must get. The default print bed is heated, so it draws a lot of power.
Best Anet A8 Upgrades: All You Need to Know
If you often print materials that require the bed to sustain heat for a long time, the mainboard may get overloaded, meaning catching fire to your A8. It prevents the mainboard from getting overwhelmed with the amount of power needed to keep the print bed heated and is a necessary safeguard against burning the whole house down.
The extruder on the A8 also has a heating element, so installing a second MOSFET could be extra precautionary, but not absolutely necessary. Last Updated: April 15, The default firmware on the A8 comes with the thermal runaway protection disabled, making it unsafe. It could be another reason why your equipment catches fire.
At the very least, it can cause hardware failure. Upgrading the firmware is essential for a safer and more stable experience. Marlin offers the best compatible firmware for the A8, but Repetier is another great option. If you want to print with high-temperature materials, you need to upgrade the PSU first. There are several options out there. The direct feeder system on the A8 puts more weight on the print head, slowing the print speed. You can boost your print speed by switching to a Bowden feeder system instead.
Take a look at Thingiverse for several different Bowden mounts. The modular Bowden mount by TNS is one of the most popular. The primary benefit of the Bowden system is increased print speed. Providing enough tension on the X and Y axis ensures that your belts stay tight. This can improve both print speed and quality.
If you mount belt tensioners on your A8, you can adjust the tightness of your belts as needed. If you do plan to install belt tensioners, make sure you also install a brace to give your Y-axis more stability.
Belt tensioners can add strain to the frame. You should also replace the stock belts when you add tensioners because the stock belts stretch faster as you increase tension. We already know that out of the box, the A8 can really only handle PLA. Once you perform upgrades to handle more advanced materials, your stock extruder may not be equipped to handle it.
Combining these upgrades allows you to print with a wider array of materials and your extruder is less prone to clogging. You can also improve your overall print quality with a centre nozzle fan.
It improves the cooling system by acting as an extension of the existing extruder cooling fan.Although I am still waiting for a couple of parts before I mount it, I print d out the Toranado for mine. You should be able to find it if you click my profile. I went for that as I like the option of being able to quickly release the whole E3DV6 and exchange it with another one. I want to play around with different nozzles and this setup means I can change the whole setup instantly without having to recalibrate and re-level every time.
Just make sure that all your nozzle heights are adjusted when you build your V6 holders and it's quick changes and happy printing after that.
I've just finished mounting e3dv6 to the same mount you are looking at.
Fitted it with full length Delrin bearings. The bracket needed soaking in hot water to soften it up so it could fit on the rails. Ha Ha. If you reuse the standard bearings there wont be an issue as there is enough slop in them to hide inaccuracies. I'm in the same boat. I just hope i can find room for 'e3d' fan and part cooling fan. I printed out a couple of others but settled on this one by TNS because it worked with my setup and the cable chain I am using.
I think this is my second choice If what I picked doesn't work out I do wish it looked better though. Yes, that is the new winner since I wont have to take apart everything its pretty much a bolt on, I wish you would have posted about hours ago before I started my other print.V6 Assembly Guide
OK, I think I may have found the winner! Second one looks good, it uses stock extruder and stock pillow blocks for the bearings. May I ask, what is your experience with Bowden setup, any practical benefits? I changed mine to bowden setup after 2 weeks of receiving my Anet A8 along with E3D V6 clone hotend so i dont think i have enough experience to begin with but i had no problem with the MK8 hotend, but the E3D are supposed to cool your cold-end better since the heatsink is larger and the throat is longer and the hotend and the cold-end is separated much further with longer throat.
Oh and i like a less cluttered x-carriage since the stepper motor is now off the x-carriage hence look much cleaner and less weight too.
I'm tempted to go the same way, i've stocked an e3d clone, but i'm hesitant to take apart a working machine. That is exactly the dilemma that keep me to change the setup much earlier, but i would never knew if i never tried so i tried it.
I have been using this mount for a month now printed in PLA. This is my fav.You bought your first 3D printer, an Anet A8. It was a bit scary at first, I know. You took time to assemble it and made few mistakes along the way. Perfectly fine. You plugged it in, started printing and the end result was good, but lets make it better with several Anet a8 upgrades. Good is just that — good. But did you know that there are things you can do to make your A8 run even better?
Make better prints, be less noisy or be more secure? Before I begin, just little thank you to all the authors of the A8 upgrades who uploaded their designs for free, so that other users can improve their printers at no additional cost.
All of these files are free to download and most of them are extremely easy to print. An Anet A8 fan duct cools your prints. The original duct fan which arrives with the A8 is not that good. The only downside of this semi-duct is that you have to remove the side fan in order to mount it.
This, however, gives a better seal and gives better air-flow. Personally, a semi-circular duct, fixed one more problem. I must admit that the original A8 duct gave me the best angle for time-lapse recording. So semi-circular it is. Pressing the hex screw in order to replace a filament is one of the worst experiences I had with A8.
The screw that needs to be pressed causes a pain in the thumb. Luckily enough, there is a solution. Extruder button is one of the simplest and fastest prints you can do. While all three work and protect your fingers well, I found Ergonomic Button the best. It has the most comfortable pressing surface and it has a mechanism to attach it tight by using plastic tie-wraps which came with A8. Its concave shape of the top prevents slippage as well.
So, I recommend that print out the ergonomic button. It takes no more than minutes depending on your printing speed. Try it out, thank me later. Guiding your filament to avoid its misguidance can be considered as a good upgrade as well. Even though it might have visible effects on your prints it reduces chafing of the filament. Also, it looks cool. I personally tried two guides and both worked well for me.Got a question or need help troubleshooting? Post to the troubleshooting forum or Search the forums!
Mike Kelly Volunteer. Joined: Mar 11, Messages: 6, Likes Received: 2, Current curated instructions are collected here. Note: This topic relates only to the 1. E3D had a very popular v5 hot end, but not being content with the design they looked at ways to improve upon it. The v5 is has an entirely metal hot end.
The only non-metal components are on the bowden version which uses a plastic coupling with a bore through PTFE tube. The v6 follows this trend, but the PTFE tube goes further into the heatsink, and butts up against the cold end of the heat break.
What makes it unique? This video does a great job of going over all the enhancements of the v6, but I'll break them down as well: Height: The most obvious change is that the E3Dv6 is considerably shorter than the v5. Previously from end to end of the direct feed E3D was a total height of 70mm while the bowden version required a total height of 82mm. In contrast the E3Dv6 is 63mm for both direct and bowden. If we compare this to the hexagon, we find the hexagon's direct drive is shorter at Bore: The short length of the E3Dv6 is due to the clever integration of pneumatic, push to fit connectors.
This allows for 4mm tube to be fed through and into the heatbreak which has been bored out to fit it. What this means is that there's a consistent 2mm of space for the filament from the moment it goes into the PTFE tube, to when it reaches the nozzle. If we compare this to the Hexagon, that uses a 1. This bore leaves only. Thermistor The E3D brings about a new method of securing the thermistor. This is fine. However, when you do install the E3D thermistor you will need to adjust the thermistor type per instructions further down.
Creates a solid connection that's very easy to swap in and out of. Now redoing wiring is not intimidating at all.DiscusZ Member. Joined: Apr 21, Messages: 2 Likes Received: 0.
All calibration prints I do are great, dimensionally sound, good layer adhesion etc. I am at a loss as to why I have printed a few things that are perfect X Belt tensioner, it is flawlesstowel hangers great. I tried a Benchy. Antoine Well-Known Member. Joined: Apr 3, Messages: Likes Received: Can you post pictures of the issues you are experiencing? However, this makes it much more sensitive to retractions. If you are experiencing jams, make sure that you are not retracting anything above mm, as this causes the molten plastic to cool inside the cold end and jam.
This is the most common issue for people switching over to V6 for the first time. If it does, start by reducing the speed, acceleration and increasing the temperature. Brien Allison Member. Joined: Apr 29, Messages: 2 Likes Received: 0. I have also had some problems with my Anet A6 after installing the V6 heaterblock. I've put this down to the Mk8 style heatbreak which has a PTFE liner that goes all the way down to the nozzle inside the heater block.
I think the PTFE liner is insulating the top part of the heaterblock and drastically reducing the meltzone in the hotend, thus creating the underextrusion. The all metal V6 heatbreak is, as it is described, all metal so acts as part of the meltzone the short part inside the heatblock I think.
The only counter for this is to reduce the material flow rate or install a complete V6 extruder assembly which I plan to in future. If you already have the complete V6 extruder assembly then ignore this post. Natari Member. Joined: May 19, Messages: 3 Likes Received: 0. Ultimately, I ended up switching out the E3d nozzle with this one from Micro-Swiss which seems to provide better heat transfer and I've been able to run at normal temperature and flow rates since.
You must log in or sign up to post here. Show Ignored Content. Share This Page Tweet. Your name or email address: Do you already have an account? No, create an account now. Yes, my password is: Forgot your password?Assembly of the E3D-v6 HotEnd should be an easy process that takes no more than half an hour.
Anet A8 – Marlin Firmware
Please follow the instructions on this page carefully to ensure that you assemble the HotEnd correctly. Screw Nozzle into the Heater Block into the end closest to the thermistor holes. Screw the Heat Break into the other side of the Heater Block so it is butts up against the nozzle. Gripping the Heater Block with a spanner, tighten the Nozzle with a second spanner. Do not over-tighten, we are going to tighten it up later when the heater block is hot.
Simply slide the sensor cartridge into the heater block and use the supplied M3 grub screw to fix the cartridge into place. Tighten the grub screw until it just touches up against the cartridge, then do one more half turn. It is important not to over-tighten the screw against the relatively soft copper cartridge, doing so can cause a range of annoying problems:. If you have one, grab a multimeter and check the resistance of your heater cartridge against the table below.
Expect your value to deviate a little from these, a difference of around plus or minus 5W is fine, however if yours is significantly off or you are concerned you have the wrong cartridge please get in touch. Insert the Heater Cartridge with the leads exiting the block the same side as the thermistor. Tighten the clamping portion of the heater block around the heater cartridge with the longer M3x10 screw. As in the photo below you should be able to see very slight deformation of the heater block clamp as it wraps around the cartridge for maximum thermal contact.
Note: The manufacturing process for heater cartridges often results in a degree of irregularity in both diameter and roundness. This is why we use a clamp, to accomodate this and ensure that in spite of the variation we get maximum thermal contact.
If you do struggle to get a firm clamp on the cartridge try rotating it. A washer under the head of the M3 screw will enable you to get a much higher clampling load. This improves heat-transfer from the heat-break threads to the heat-sink for slightly better thermal performance in marginal cases. The thermal compound should be spread evenly across the threads of the heat-break, only on the cold-side of the heat-break that screws into the heat-sink.
The compound should not be used on any of the threads on the hot-side of the heat-break. The small sachet of compound contains more than is needed for one HotEnd, so don't feel like you need to use all of it.
Screw the HeatSink onto the HeatBreak by gripping the heatsink in one hand and the heater block in the other. It only needs to be tightened up hand-tight. Do not overtighten. Below is an illustration of how far down the PTFE tubing must extend.
The photo below is not an assembly step, just an illustration of what should be happening inside your hotend. In the 3mm Bowden version the PTFE tubing pushes into the top of the heatsink and stops inside the heatsink.
Using the 4 Plastfast screws, attach the fan to the fan-duct such that the wires exit the fan in a convenient location - preferably such that it can be bundled in with the thermistor and heater cartridge cables.
It can sometimes take quite a lot of torque to get the screws all the way in. Be sure to select a screwdriver that is a good fit or you risk striping the heads of the screws. In the following stages we are going to configure the HotEnd in firmware then go on to do the final hot-tighten of the HotEnd. This can be done either on or off your printer, however where practical we recommend doing it off your printer, then mounting.
Connect the heater-cartridge and thermistor to your electronics board. Please refer to the documentation specific to your electronics for Pin-Outs and other technical information which may be relevant to the HotEnd installation.
In newer versions of Marlin there are extra features for Thermal Runaway Protection should your thermistor come loose. New in Online Configuration Tool v are the two options to also improve safety:. This value gives better accuracy at typical printing temperatures in the range to C than the B value of quoted in the datasheet. In general the E3D-v6 hotend is highly tolerant of most printing conditions and is designed to accept the vast majority of filaments on the market.
There are however some things to be aware of:.Thank you! You are very right — it is the first time somebody describes this procedure in so clear way! BTW — without bootloader writing I cannot do the Marlin installation. Once again thank you! Like Like. You are commenting using your WordPress. You are commenting using your Google account.
You are commenting using your Twitter account. You are commenting using your Facebook account. Notify me of new comments via email. Notify me of new posts via email. Skip to content. At the time of this writing the latest version is 1. It can be found on arduino.
In the Arduino directory there should be a hardware sub-directory; if not, then you need to create it. Copying Anet V1. After finding the hardware directory, you need to download and install the Anet A8 board definition Anet V1. Once the files have been extracted, there should be a sub-directory called anetthis directory needs to be moved to your Arduino hardware directory from step 2.
To me these steps are overly complicated for a little benefit, but maybe one day you will need to re-flash the bootloader and you may as well use Optiboot. Below is a picture of the Anet main board with the programming connector circled, it is next to the LCD connector.
Then select Burn Bootloader. Now download the Marlin firmware, you can get the latest release from the Marlin Github. At time of writing version 1. Extract the firmware Marlin Configuration Files The example firmware configuration for the Anet A8 is a good place to start and will work if you had not made any major changes to your Anet A8. In the Tools menu select the correct Anet board, either Anet V1. In the Tools menu select the correct Port.
Compile the firmware, click on the Verify icon. To upload the firmware to the Anet A8, click on the Upload icon. Share this: Twitter Facebook.
Bad prints after upgrading to E3D v6 hotend
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